This Homeline load center has a height of 20.90 inches, a width of 14.25 inches, and depth of 3.74 inches. The box lugs will accept a wire range of 6 AWG to 3 AWG copper or 6 AWG to 1 AWG aluminum wire. This system provides 20 spaces in a NEMA 1 indoor enclosure with a combination flush/surface indoor cover. Homeline load center provides a 22 kA breaking capacity. Square D Homeline 100-Amp 20-Spaces 40-Circuit Outdoor Main Breaker Plug-on Neutral Load Center Shop Square D 14 Out of Stock Specifications Q&A 139.65 when you choose 5 savings on eligible purchases every day. Load center is also supplied with a two pole 30A 120/240 VAC circuit breaker and a one pole 20A 120/240 VAC circuit breaker. This Homeline load center has a two pole plug on neutral main supply circuit breaker that is rated at 100A 120/240 VAC single phase. Homeline load centers are designed for residential and industrial use to protect electrical systems, equipment and people. Systems are single phase and are rated for indoor use or are rain proof. Homeline load centers enable the use of a full complement of accessories. So "staying with Square D brand" does you absolutely nothing unless you stay with QO, which is a costly (but quite good) industrial-tier panel.The Homeline load center offer features Homeline circuit breakers, ground fault circuit breakers and arc fault interrupters. HOM and QO are 100% incompatible and share nothing except enclosures. And running out of spaces is very costly. Spaces are actually cheap, the cost diff to a "plenty of spaces" panel is pretty minimal. ![]() using the most el-cheapo panel on the market, HOMeline. Of course, the "thrifty gene" motivates us to "think cheap" and try to chintz out as much as possible, e.g. The #1 priority when selecting a subpanel is breaker spaces. Forgive yourself the error of "buying before researching", and get the item that's right for you. I already have the HL panel mounted to the wall.ĭon't get swept into the "fallacy of sunk costs", trying to force a wrong thing to work merely because you already own it. If cost was no object or if distance was very short, I'd run 2/0 copper, which is 175A and could actually carry an entire 200A service due to 310.15(B)(7). The largest readily available QO breaker is 125A. The larger wire will allow upgrading the capacity later simply by enlarging the breaker. I'd use the smallest breaker that will do the job for now, since cost is a concern. I think I would run 2/0 aluminum wire (135A) which is the largest wire that will fit on a "QO" 80A through 125A breaker. I'm OK with bring 200A to the sub, but the cost of the QO2225SL subfeed lug will be prohibitive. You implement this feature by choosing EVSE's designed to work with each other via Share2. It dynamically allocates current according to the EVs' needs and abilities. There is even a way for multiple EVs to share a single current allocation, called "Share2". EV charging is actually pretty sophisticated, and they've thought of everything. So if your Load Calculation won't support 80A, you can simply change the commissioning settings on the EVSE to set the current you have available. The Load Calculation will tell you whether the house's service can support all this stuff, and how big subpanels need to be.Įlectric Vehicle charging is adjustable. That is the proper and NEC-specified procedure for determining the load on a panel or service. A Load Calculation is seriously warranted here. You would need a QO2225SL subfeed lug kit, with 200A wire to a 200A subpanel. That's perfectly allowed if you want to do it. So to use a subfeed lug kit, a) the lug kit must be >=200A, b) the wires must be >=200A and c) the subpanel must be >=200A.
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